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Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.